Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| K8 | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | 3ft left of K9. SDS, left on big sidepull, right on flaky pinch. Left to crimp, right to pocket crimp, left up to crimp, hit left finishing slope of K9 & TO over higher left side. |
| Serpentine | V4+ | - | SDS on right arête with 2 crimps. Ramp is off. Up on undercling, huge pockets & slopers to big vertical jug. |
| The O-Ring | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | On boulder to left, on sharp, steep arête. SS on slopey pinch & sidepull crimp. Up on sidepulls & slopey pocket, bomb for ring at lip. Drop – do not top out. Do not exit left. |
| Achilles Heel | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under the hang directly to the right of the trail. Cruise straight out through the hang & to the top. |
| Acronym | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Mud Jug down on super low crimps. Cruise up to the v-notch TO. |
| Anklet | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start 3 Feet left of Bewareandrun on second large block. Move through crimpers to the big black hole. Var V5/6 SDS on small edges down low. (V6 without jug). |
| Back to B.K.S | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on obvious sidepulls, head left up prow using futuristic holds including pinches, a sharp little pocket and flat sidepulls. Crank over first buldge to a good seam, follow up to a hidden top. Higher than you think. |
| Band Saw | V5 | ⭐⭐ | 3ft. left of Log. Left on sharp crimp, right on sidepull (2-finger pocket off). Up/left to sidepull, then to sloping hold just left of crack, finish by traversing way left through a slot & other large holds. Hard start, SCARY TO. |
| Bareback | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on nose and traverse right to the end jug. TO |
| Boba Fett | V5 | ⭐ | SDS with left on starting holds of Pondering, right on edge. Move up & right on the right hand face to the TO. |
| Brave New World | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on 2 sidepulls left of finish of Pump Traverse. Lunge to sloper, then turn lip & TO. |
| Brian's Got a Rubber Toy | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start under roof. Move to monster lock off on crimps, & move to big jug. Finish as for Bolero. |
| Bulgogi | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start at jug & use other features along seam to reach the long crimp. Mantle & trend right to rib. |
| Chuck Norris | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start as per Threesome but go straight up past the Threesome ledge to a rail with crimpy incuts. Continue up to the finish jugs of Threesome on more crimps and incuts. |
| Crimp-de-la-Crimp | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on jug under roof & hold directly above, foot to ledge on right, pull lip & small pockets. Drop down. |