Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Houlding Power | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful. |
| Infected Mushroom Left | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs. |
| Krymptonite | V7 | ⭐ | Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket. |
| Low Rider | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug. |
| Mangler Jr. | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V. |
| Mighty Mitges | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on 2 big pockets. Go up right to small crimp. Crank up to left hand sidepull. Bust for the huge pocket. |
| Mostly Harmless | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for ‘Winter’, into ‘Stretch’ knob hold, right to sharp mono pocket & sloper with ¼ pad crimp. Reach up to sidepull finish for stretch. |
| Nogoko | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on large holds below prow. Cross right to pocket/pinch, left to edge, & then pull lip. |
| Paste Low | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start matched on the sloped undercling for Paste, and climb straight up.
FA: Emile Baril |
| Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on adjacent rock, left on flat 3-finger chunk 4ft around left arête, right on 2-finger textured scoop on arête. Bust out right to blocky sidepull of kung fu, & tension out to incut. Finish as for the original. Var V? Left 2-finger scoop with good thumb lock & the horrible sloping foot hold to the right. |
| Repet | V7 | ⭐ | SDS. Big footledge and match at positive hand hold. Start hitting sidepulls to lip and finish at handlebar. |
| Rim-Job Arête | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Amnesia but instead of toping out left follow the sloping arête & TO at the top. |
| Ruffneck | V7 | ⭐ | 5ft left of Orient. SDS on rounded sidepull edge/pinch for left, positive sidepull flake/edge for right. Move out overhang on sidepull edges, 2/3-finger pocket, & large gaston. Finish using 2-finger slot pocket & incut crack pinch. Heels are key. |
| The Flesh Prince | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner. Start at 2 underclings, climb bulge using crimps/sidepulls, & bomb for crimp up/left. TO big jugs. |
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |