Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slap Happy | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on undercling & edge on arête. Climb slopers without the crack & large holds. |
| Speed Bump Direct | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do 'Speed', and instead of to black finish jug, climb straight up to good pocket at lip & do slabby TO. |
| Speed Kills | V5 | ⭐ | SDS as for 101; crank up right side of wall staying right of big crack. Finish on large jug halfway up the wall. |
| Stitches | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on square horizontal jug 10' left of Pressed. Out roof on square cut 3-finger jug at lip, then sloper jugs up/left. |
| Summer Romance | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | To right of tombstone boulder is a low boulder with a lip that extends a little ways downhill. SDS low on lip on a jug. Traverse the lip up & left until you are forced to TO. |
| TC | V5 | - | SDS on the super thin pinch on the right side of the right face. Cruise to the TO. |
| The Baroness | V5 | - | Right side of boulder. Up crimps to very loose & dangerous looking flake then go on more crimps to the TO. |
| The Egg | V5 | - | I need a description |
| The Great Wall of China | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start way to the left. Traverse right, the entire boulder. Stay below large holds above your head. |
| The Impressionist | V5 | ⭐ | SDS right of Minimalist on good crimps. Fire up to good holds, continue to clean TO, same as ‘Feet’. |
| The Little Illustrious | V5 | ⭐ | SDS on set of crimps, pinches. Start squeezing bulge to hidden pocket & slope up left. TO bulge. |
| The Pondering | V5 | - | Start on low obvious holds & climb arête. TO. |
| Therapist | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Far right side of boulder is small overhung dihedral. SDS, work up staying off arête & do standup TO. |
| Thunder and Lightning | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the pockets. Lunge to the monster slopers then up right to an edge. Finish on top. |
| Tractorbeam Traverse | V5 | ⭐ | Start on far left backside. Traverse right, entire lip of boulder. Mantle using slot & 2-finger pocket. |