Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Trillibyte | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on far right side of boulder. Traverse left under obvious crimp ledge. Finish as for Anklet. |
| Underklingons | V5 | - | SDS left of Piercing on underclings. Crank to set of pinches to gain sharp flakes out left, up to bushy top. |
| Unnamed Pockets | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Who Run Tings, straight up to small 2-finger pocket & long reach to slopey TO. |
| Windy City | V5 | - | Start down low on the ledge & pocket. Traverse up & left to the top. (SDS V6) |
| Young Offender | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Right side of boulder. Left sidepulling pockety stuff, right on crimp sidepull, up to undercling with thumb hole, straight up to TO. |
| An Empty Place | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Losing, head right on low pocket then cross above to pocket. Pull lip on pockets/edges. TO. |
| Bottlerocket | V4+ | - | This problem is right of A. heel opposite the tree. Match on sharp plate. Use slopers to get a good pocket. Topout on pockets and edges. |
| Dead Man Traverse | V4+ | - | SDS in little cave that is formed by the morgue on the far right arete. traverse left and around the corner to the spearhead looking side. |
| Glue Babies | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | Side down start, lefthand crimp, righthand pocket. Up/left on small pockets/edges, to lefthand gaston and small righthand crimp, slap a good sloper around arête. Finish on jug. |
| Hector's Toehook | V4+ | - | Same start as achilles at the second jug bust right to some slopers and work out to good triangular pinch then topout. |
| High Times | V4+ | - | Around corner. Sit start on the sloping ledge and jug sidepull. Up to the pocket, to the obvious flake. Small pockets and crimps to top left corner. Top out to the right |
| K8 | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | 3ft left of K9. SDS, left on big sidepull, right on flaky pinch. Left to crimp, right to pocket crimp, left up to crimp, hit left finishing slope of K9 & TO over higher left side. |
| Serpentine | V4+ | - | SDS on right arête with 2 crimps. Ramp is off. Up on undercling, huge pockets & slopers to big vertical jug. |
| The O-Ring | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | On boulder to left, on sharp, steep arête. SS on slopey pinch & sidepull crimp. Up on sidepulls & slopey pocket, bomb for ring at lip. Drop – do not top out. Do not exit left. |
| 1492 | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Middle. SDS, LH on sidepull, RH on sidepull down low. Up on couple of lousy holds for each hand to 3-finger pocket in middle of face. Grab horn. |