Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Musetta's Waltz | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on flaky crimps and waltz your way to the top out. |
| Nightmare | V1 | ⭐ | SDS right side of face in a clean line of weaknesses capped by a dyno to lip. Then mantle. |
| No U-Turn | V1 | ⭐ | Start on left side of face. Up to v-notch, then up/right to TO. Var V2 – dyno for top on ledge next to v-notch. |
| Nuno | V1 | - | SDS on the laybacks crank to the top through pockets. |
| On the Other Hand | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Start on far right on pocket. Trend left to hand match using small left footholds, to positive holds, stop at the solid flat jug. |
| Operation POCKET CHANGE | V1 | ⭐ | Start RH deep pocket, LH sidepull. TO using crimps & large pocket. Avoid sidepulls out left. Var V3 Dyno from deep pocket. |
| Panzy | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Start in the middle of the face, which faces the river. Crank through pockets to the top. |
| Penalty Hang | V1 | - | SDS on the giant underclings; move up through pockets to the big ledge. |
| Plumbers Crack | V1 | ⭐ | SDS under the hang & crank up the crack. |
| Pocket Protector | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left of Juggy on nice sidepulls. Crank on killer pockets to sidepull to access super solid flake. TO. Var V4 Start left of original problem in mono & sidepull. Go to mono & finish as orig. |
| Poo-Tips | V1 | - | Start on jugs under hang, reach out for crimpy edge, throw right to the slopey sidepull, & end on the obvious ledge. |
| Potential Hand Jam | V1 | - | Climb the arête & slopers to the TO. |
| Right Line | V1 | ⭐ | SDS right of Noise Pollution & climb straight up. Stay off the large ledge to your left. Great TO. |
| SNAFUBAR | V1 | ⭐ | SDS at far right and traverse to middle and go up clean face. |
| Sandalia | V1 | - | Start as for Pump Traverse, but move right & climb the arête. |