Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Trouble and Strife | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Help from... on 2 slopers on bulge. Left heel on rail of Help... Bust up to side pull, then sloper (both with left hand) then up. |
| Life O'Reilly Sit | V7+ | - | Same start as Life O'Reilly, but sit start. |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. |
| Anti Hero | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start at lip left of Novacane on blocky pinch & crimp, campus to sharp edge above, finish on huge slot/rail above. |
| Approaching Guiding Light | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on left side of 45 wall in cave, left on a u-shaped crimp, right on pinch. Hit good edge, cross to sloper & hit lip. TO. |
| Asian friends | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Help from wife... except that you go left hand to far part of top sloper instead of divot. |
| Back To His Future | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at corner. on sidepull/underclings. Up/left to gaston & right facing slopey sidepull. Finish on jug. |
| Balrog Battle | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right across the path of the Misfits boulder (mighty midges, etc) an overhang facing the river view atop the tunnel path. Start seated matched on low rail. Topout. FA Jake Tiger. |
| Beef Baron | V7 | - | Start on the bottom left side. After the first undercling pocket climb small crimps to the TO |
| Blazed | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on big & slopey sidepull, right on small & crimpy sidepull. Cross into a small pocket, & work into Pothead. |
| Celebrex | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the arete on the bottom left side of the boulder. Move out under the steep section to continue climbing to the top. |
| Classified | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | In middle of overhanging prow. Starts on 2 good slot pockets, TO using undercling pocket & crimps. |
| Comfortably Numb | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane. |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. |
| FA Glory | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link. |