Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baguette | V4 | ⭐ | Stand start in the middle of the face, climb straight up and top out. |
| Balance | V4 | ⭐ | Climb up the center of the back face. TO. (Around the right corner from No U-Turn). |
| Banana Soup | V4 | - | SDS on small edges down low on left side. Crank up through a series of small edges to sidepull flake & finish. |
| Beast Under Your Bed | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of scary monsters on nice slopers. Climb up/left on slopers to join arête to TO. |
| Beware! The rock enema! | V4 | - | SDS on slopey rail, use pockets straight up. stay off both aretes. Watch for the pointy rock in the landing. |
| Bloody Tips | V4 | - | Start on God on far right slopey jug. Throw to the top. |
| Bluetips | V4 | ⭐ | Climb left most line on this prominent face following an incipient crack to its flaring end. TO. |
| Buen tacos en mi sombrero | V4 | - | SDS left of prow 12 feet under roof. Lie down to start on 2 four finger slots. Traverse right staying off jugs on lip. Use crimps & pockets to the prow slap the prow and jug TO. variation use the jug at the first prow v3. |
| Cheese | V4 | ⭐ | Stand start at the left side of the boulder just right of the bulge. Climb up through the gastons and pockets to gain the lip and top out. |
| Cheese Eating Surrender Monkeys | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Back of boulder, start to right of low bulge on left side, left on textured undercling & stretched out right on crimpy sidepull. Straight up to sloping gastons, dual crimpy pockets, TO. |
| Corny flakes | V4 | - | SDS with hands on either side of the arete on crimps. youll know the start by the rock you have to sit on. Go straight up. TO. |
| Crash | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Gill. Left on easy sloper, nasty crimp, horrid gaston. Throw to v notch, grab black jug. TO as for Karn. |
| Cream Cheese | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Facing Cal's boulder is a ramp that angles right. Jump into hole & start here. Use tweaky crimps to access slopey pinch & triangle flake. TO to left of that. Be sure to stay off the lip on either side!! |
| Dang Me | V4 | - | SDS in middle of boulder & grab an edge & mono undercling type of thing. Throw to left hand pinch & cruise to top. |
| Darlene | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on right facing rail. Move right to good edge, long reach left to good incut pocket & cross over to finish at Pica. |