Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| X-Files | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on cool slopey edges right of Exlax. Up/right on cool edges. Finish jug is 4ft to right of start holds. |
| Y.A.P.P. | V4 | - | Start on back of boulder to right of arête on sidepull & pinch. Up to crazy move to slanting pocket. Up to mossy TO. |
| An Empty Place | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Losing, head right on low pocket then cross above to pocket. Pull lip on pockets/edges. TO. |
| Bottlerocket | V4+ | - | This problem is right of A. heel opposite the tree. Match on sharp plate. Use slopers to get a good pocket. Topout on pockets and edges. |
| Dead Man Traverse | V4+ | - | SDS in little cave that is formed by the morgue on the far right arete. traverse left and around the corner to the spearhead looking side. |
| Glue Babies | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | Side down start, lefthand crimp, righthand pocket. Up/left on small pockets/edges, to lefthand gaston and small righthand crimp, slap a good sloper around arête. Finish on jug. |
| Hector's Toehook | V4+ | - | Same start as achilles at the second jug bust right to some slopers and work out to good triangular pinch then topout. |
| High Times | V4+ | - | Around corner. Sit start on the sloping ledge and jug sidepull. Up to the pocket, to the obvious flake. Small pockets and crimps to top left corner. Top out to the right |
| K8 | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | 3ft left of K9. SDS, left on big sidepull, right on flaky pinch. Left to crimp, right to pocket crimp, left up to crimp, hit left finishing slope of K9 & TO over higher left side. |
| Serpentine | V4+ | - | SDS on right arête with 2 crimps. Ramp is off. Up on undercling, huge pockets & slopers to big vertical jug. |
| The O-Ring | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | On boulder to left, on sharp, steep arête. SS on slopey pinch & sidepull crimp. Up on sidepulls & slopey pocket, bomb for ring at lip. Drop – do not top out. Do not exit left. |
| Achilles Heel | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under the hang directly to the right of the trail. Cruise straight out through the hang & to the top. |
| Acronym | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Mud Jug down on super low crimps. Cruise up to the v-notch TO. |
| Anklet | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start 3 Feet left of Bewareandrun on second large block. Move through crimpers to the big black hole. Var V5/6 SDS on small edges down low. (V6 without jug). |
| Back to B.K.S | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on obvious sidepulls, head left up prow using futuristic holds including pinches, a sharp little pocket and flat sidepulls. Crank over first buldge to a good seam, follow up to a hidden top. Higher than you think. |