Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lady-Friend | V4 | ⭐⭐ | 1ft right of tree on horizontal & 3 finger vertical pocket. Follow cascading slopers to top & over. Left corner off. |
| Left Arête | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on sharp left arête with both hands. Move on pockets/edges to TO, stay off large pockets of V Traverse. |
| Left Hard | V4 | ⭐ | SDS. Cruise up through crimps & a lunge to the top. TO. |
| Life Sentence | V4 | - | Standing in middle of face, up on good crimps, pinches. Stay away from right face (loose). TO in jungle. |
| Logger Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start same as Sharpshooter. Reach up to good edges & hit the arête. Use a deep mono to reach the TO. |
| Long Live The Dude | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS at far right jugs and reach to slots. Press out to gaston, cross to pockets,crimps to handlebar. |
| Love of my Life | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start 9ft left of Threesome on chalky horizontal rail. Bump right to blocky gaston, reach high with left to deep undercling/sidepull, match & make move left to sharp horizontal flake. Finish above on sharp, knife-blade jugs. |
| Low Traverse | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Forget on small pocket & undercling. Traverse low, staying under lip. TO right arête. Var V4/5 Start on opposing sidepulls as for Rail Problem. Traverse low through good sidepull to normal start. |
| Magnum | V4 | - | SDS on the left side of the right face. Pull some weird pockets to the TO. |
| Mama Mia | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start down low, right of big "dish". Climb up through hang, & onto the clean face. TO slightly right. Var V6 SDS, avoid pockets out right, climb face. |
| Mantle | V4 | ⭐ | SDS left in pocket under lip, right on square-cut sloper. Up/right on small crimps. End on horiz crack. Arête out. NOTE: Name changed, the original name was offensive.
|
| Mask of Zorro | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start at bottom of stairs on big slopey edge. Traverse up, and left, on cirmps and pockets. Finish by the top of the stairs |
| Men at Work | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Faces upstream. SDS on sloping arête with small finger divot, up/left on slopers using heel hooks, mantle. |
| Midnight Express | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on scoop pocket in overhang. Out to lip & straight up. Left arête is & right jug flake off. TO. |
| Minority Report | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of Dead... on crimps. Ascend the roof to a very sketchy top out. Use extreme caution. |