Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Degraded Youth | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on low left with back to river, hands matched on positive flake. Throw to slopers, find small crimp, work right to better holds. TO all the way up on easy slab. |
| Delicatessan | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start on the dual sidepulls as for Energy Crisis. End at the big undercling (start of Pica). |
| Desperate | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start on opposing sidepulls left of Girly. Climb pockets to top, stay left of the large pocket about 6 feet high. TO. |
| Diablo | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left side under dihedral, SDS on 2 crimps. Up/right to pair of pockets. Move to 3-finger pocket in middle of face. Finish on horn. Stay off of dihedral! |
| Dogtooth Spar | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on large block 2.5ft. off ground along seam on overhang. Up to large sloper, right of seam. Gaston sharp, vertical rail to left. Next to small sidepull on seam just right of rail, go left to small, slopey ledge, & to TO. |
| Don't Think... Feeeeeeel | V4 | - | Sit down start, left hand low crimp on crumbly face, right hand low on good pinch on arête. Pop up on face, over to two finger pocket. Finish as for Asian Friends |
| Don't Think... Feel | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS LH low crimp on crumbly face, RH low good pinch on arete. Pop up on face, over to 2F pocket. Finish as for Asian Friends. |
| Dumbass | V4 | ⭐ | SDS below the Cal's Crack start. Move up & right through some slopers to the huge pocket. |
| Elephant House Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start right of Elephant on jugs, out blunt arête, big moves on more jugs. Head up & TO. |
| Existencialistic | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Center of face to right of vertical crack. Start on undercling to left of obviously dangerous undercling. Stay out of vertical crack. Move up left to overhanging arête until you can find the large ledge above. TO not suggested. |
| Exlax | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on awkward start in dihedral & cruise through the open book. |
| Eyes Lay Waste | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left of Rule on edge of overhang. Right on sidepull on face, left on blunt arête. Up/right on sidepulls, slots, TO at huge mail slot jug at peak of arête. |
| Faith | V4 | ⭐ | SDS at the pinch move up through the overhang to the slabby topout. |
| Fire It Up | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on crimp and right on sidepull tooth. Up and out right to hold with inset mono. Go up or link into the other problem. TO |
| Floating Seagulls | V4 | - | Start on the 2 handed jug. Move left to arête & traverse onto face & gain the big jug to the TO. |