Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PFD (Personal Flotation Device) | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on large jugs. Move up to slopers, providing access to seam in middle of face. TO. |
| PP's Problem | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start at 3-finger pocket next to Semblance, crank through pockets to jug on top. |
| Paste | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start in middle of boulder on an undercling & sharp sidepull pocket. Paste your feet on & pop for face holds. |
| Pete's Pinch | V3 | - | Start on right arête on improbable micro-edge & a pocket. Climb through the sidepull & 2 underclings to the top. |
| Pick Pocket | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on right side of fat ledge. Up to good slot, cross to good sidepull pocket. Out over bulge to pocket. TO. |
| Pocket Rocket | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS at awkward start on 2 pinch pockets (right) & a good pocket right of flake. Up on slopey pocket to top. |
| Pocket Traverse | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on right side of back face on huge hueco-like pockets. Traverse line of pockets left across face until you can move up to large vertical crack before big ramp. Move up to big ledges then finish. TO. |
| Prenup | V3 | ⭐ | Start right of Honeymoon - on giant shelf. Move up face on smallish holds to large ledge - drop down. |
| Pretty in Pink | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on two angular jugs and trend right. Can only be done when the Niagara cuts back the water flow! TO. |
| Procreation | V3 | - | Start left in birth canal pocket, right on arête. Heel hook right arête. Left to huge block, match in top slot of block with right. Shoot left to either sidepull, or crimp, shoot right to sharp mini jug. Shoot left to finish jug match on jug & step off. |
| Psilocybin Roof | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Doesn't take much route finding here! Find the huge hand/fist crack in the roof & climb it. Top out above. Formerly a roped climb graded 5.11. |
| Punk Ass | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start at the back of the cave. Traverse entire wall. 15ft. |
| Quantum Liaisons | V3 | ⭐ | SDS right of ‘Copycat’. RH in hidden pocket/pinch & LH on anything. Pull slopey pockets to top. |
| Rails Problem | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Pete's Pinch. At the big pinch, move right to an edge & cruise up the obvious rail to the top. TO. |
| Right Arête | V3 | ⭐ | Start on far right side on main face. Climb small pockets & incut edges to top. Stay right of arête. |