Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beef Baron | V7 | - | Start on the bottom left side. After the first undercling pocket climb small crimps to the TO |
| Blazed | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on big & slopey sidepull, right on small & crimpy sidepull. Cross into a small pocket, & work into Pothead. |
| Celebrex | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the arete on the bottom left side of the boulder. Move out under the steep section to continue climbing to the top. |
| Classified | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | In middle of overhanging prow. Starts on 2 good slot pockets, TO using undercling pocket & crimps. |
| Comfortably Numb | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane. |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. |
| FA Glory | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link. |
| Full Moon Rising | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Gillty. Climb up in black streak on mostly sidepulls. Trend up/right to TO. |
| Girls of Cheektowaga | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge |
| Gulag | V7 | ⭐ | Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart. |
| Houlding Power | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful. |
| Infected Mushroom Left | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs. |
| Krymptonite | V7 | ⭐ | Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket. |
| Low Rider | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug. |
| Mangler Jr. | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V. |