Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mighty Mitges | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on 2 big pockets. Go up right to small crimp. Crank up to left hand sidepull. Bust for the huge pocket. |
| Mostly Harmless | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for ‘Winter’, into ‘Stretch’ knob hold, right to sharp mono pocket & sloper with ¼ pad crimp. Reach up to sidepull finish for stretch. |
| Nogoko | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on large holds below prow. Cross right to pocket/pinch, left to edge, & then pull lip. |
| Paste Low | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start matched on the sloped undercling for Paste, and climb straight up.
FA: Emile Baril |
| Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on adjacent rock, left on flat 3-finger chunk 4ft around left arête, right on 2-finger textured scoop on arête. Bust out right to blocky sidepull of kung fu, & tension out to incut. Finish as for the original. Var V? Left 2-finger scoop with good thumb lock & the horrible sloping foot hold to the right. |
| Repet | V7 | ⭐ | SDS. Big footledge and match at positive hand hold. Start hitting sidepulls to lip and finish at handlebar. |
| Rim-Job Arête | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Amnesia but instead of toping out left follow the sloping arête & TO at the top. |
| Ruffneck | V7 | ⭐ | 5ft left of Orient. SDS on rounded sidepull edge/pinch for left, positive sidepull flake/edge for right. Move out overhang on sidepull edges, 2/3-finger pocket, & large gaston. Finish using 2-finger slot pocket & incut crack pinch. Heels are key. |
| The Flesh Prince | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner. Start at 2 underclings, climb bulge using crimps/sidepulls, & bomb for crimp up/left. TO big jugs. |
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. |
| Vigilante Justice | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS backside in overhang, left on fat pinch, right on bad crimp. Up overhang on cool slopers, rocket to jug at lip. TO left. |
| White Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right side on sharp undercling & blocky hold. Huge move to pocket at lip, & hit an intermediate to huck to another pocket on face. Head left traversing on pockets/edges through the bulge, TO near a dirty ledge. |
| Life O'Reilly Sit | V7+ | - | Same start as Life O'Reilly, but sit start. |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. |