Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Orient Express | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on scoop pocket. Out overhang on edges, shoot to lip pockets. Finish up/right on large edges. |
| Peewee | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right of Sibishi. Left on sidepull flake just right of undercling pocket. Right on crimpy sidepull low out right (looks like an ear). Fall back onto sidepull near your face, throw for long crimp edge. Match & finish as for Sibishi. |
| Peripheral Vision | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Overhung dihedral. SDS, right on non-existent crimp, left on small pocket. Climb dihedral. TO. |
| Personal Vendetta | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at 2 big opposing sidepulls, left same as Blazed. Up/left on sidepull slots. Cross to right hand pinch/gaston. Rock over to pockets and slots around bulge. TO using jugs. |
| Sexual Inadequacy | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Snakes Eyes, straight up to crimpy pinch & bust left to crimp & up arete. TO. |
| Snake Eyes | V8 | ⭐ | SDS on right arête at an awkward rail. Move left through large pocket to slopers & up the arête. TO. |
| Sweet Peaness | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on low rail and move up and right to a sloping pocket. Mantle the top as per Misfit Mantle |
| The Embryo | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start to The Egg.
FA: Tomasz Wojtkowiak |
| The Honeymoon | V8 | - | SDS in horiz crack at back of roof. Go to lip. Use edges, crimps, slopers & arête to reach jugs. |
| Trouble and Strife | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Help from... on 2 slopers on bulge. Left heel on rail of Help... Bust up to side pull, then sloper (both with left hand) then up. |
| Dead Stuff | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS 6ft right of Right Stuff large incut ledges. Left to Right Stuff. Climb El Guapo. |
| Elephant House Roof | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on sculpted jug. Move to lip & surmount with difficulty. TO above good arête like jug. |
| Infected Mushroom | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Chain Reaction, head left to Krymptonite finish. Hit sloping ledge out right & straight up to large side pull. TO. |
| Raserie | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start directly to the left of CN on a big slopy pinch rail & hold your chest parallel to the ground, put your feet up near the starting holds on CN and work your way up the rail pulling in with your arms and pushing out with your feet. Set up on 2 crimps and throw out to the starting on Novacane. Finish as per Novacane. Finish as per Sandstone Rullet future V10/11? |
| English Voodoo | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on pinch, right on crimp, up/out steep arête. Long moves at end of arête & turning lip. TO. |