Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mr. Armageddon | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do Delicatessen then from the big undercling DOUBLE-DYNO to the big sloppy ledge. |
| Neolithic | V5 | ⭐⭐ | On the left side of this boulder a blunt arête features some kind slopers. Slap these to a pleasing TO. |
| Novocane | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS far right of cave on sharp 2 sided flake jug. Crank into crack/seam & out to end. Chuck for jug ledge up left. |
| Oral-B | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Illustrious, from pinches head right to undercling & work to right of bulge using small crimps. TO bulge. |
| Peg Leg | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Little Tree except head up & left biting pockets, finish on Mullet Attack. |
| Pica | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in the cave on the double undercling block. Move right around the corner; follow the seam to the top. |
| Piercing Joe Valentine | V5 | - | SDS on flat jug. Throw left up to sloping crimp & then right up. Crank straight up. |
| Pothead | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | 3ft left of 2 dollar on right facing ledge. Reach up to knob, then up/left to slopey block. Dyno to finish jug. TO. |
| Pothole | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for U-Turn, at v-notch move through slopers to jug on arête. Lunge right to finish jug on No-U-Turn! |
| Reaction Action | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug, huck up to wicked sloper, match & bump to sloper, gain left crimp & up to tiny crimp to TO. |
| Running Man | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on spike, right next to left on edge of rail. Dyno up/right to huge carved out whirlpool area. TO through open slot. |
| Semblance | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under overhang near the left. Climb through the finger pockets to the top. |
| Shake-a-Sherpa | V5 | ⭐ | SDS on lowest point (closest to river) on 2 slopers. Move up through series of slopers to hit far right side of lip. Loose jug on left side of lip is out. TO. |
| Slap Happy | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on undercling & edge on arête. Climb slopers without the crack & large holds. |
| Speed Bump Direct | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do 'Speed', and instead of to black finish jug, climb straight up to good pocket at lip & do slabby TO. |