Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| English Voodoo | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on pinch, right on crimp, up/out steep arête. Long moves at end of arête & turning lip. TO. |
| Epiphany | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start on sharp black 2-handed jug. Straight out roof on thuggish gastons, pockets & pinches. Stab a deep slot in headwall & campus up to jug, straight above. TO on gigantic holds. |
| Fear of a Toothed Vagina | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder on steep face. SDS low on 2 pockets; move up/right on pockets/underclings. Sharp! TO. |
| Ivy League | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Around corner left of Maha. Start on 2 flat crimps. Throw heel high/left. Reach up to pocket crimps & bust it up to ledge. TO. |
| Ko-Chi-Minh-Trail | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start middle of boulder, right on gaston, left on right leaning crimp. Up/right to sharp left leaning crimp. Work way up on few bad holds to eventually make a toss to the good edge just before the top of the boulder. TO. |
| Necromancer | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Starts on jugs on the righthand side of the cave. Move through slopers and edges, and make a big move to the pocket at the lip. Finish as Orient Express. |
| Razor Wire Education | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under Maha on 2-handed jug. Stab gaston in crack, lock off & cross to sloper over lip. Throw to start of Maha, climb Maha. |
| Riff Raff | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb huge overhanging prow starting on sidepull rails. Slap up the rails, eventually hooking the middle rail and continue up to TO (messy) up and right. The landing is ok if well padded. |
| Rodeo Clown | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right under Bonfire. Right on hidden pinch, left on big sidepull. Dyno to big 3-finger jug, finish Bonfire. |
| Rule of Thumb | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right. |
| Sandstone Roulette | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Novacane. Make big move left into rail, out to small horn. Left to starting holds of Anti Hero. Climb Anti Hero. Var V6/7 Start as for Novacane, left into suspect rail & continue to horn. Throw back into Novacane & finish. |
| Shadow Boxing | V9 | ⭐ | Start on flat 8-finger edge 4ft right of Gulag. Long move to get tiny left-facing sharp crimp sidepull, head up to sidepull flakes. Keep working up/left, resisting the urge to jump right into an adjacent problem. Finish over the lip on big holds. |
| Smoke the Dutchess (aka Gary's Roof) | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at base of big roof on jug. Up to left finger lock, crank to right undercling. Left slaps offset seam, right grabs more underclings. After sloper at lip, grab edge & reach way up to huge right facing sidepull. Stand up over lip to TO. |
| Tantric Shocker | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on arête, right in 4-finger pocket. Left to crimp on arête, shoot to Shocker pocket. Finish Shocker. Var V9 Finish on Felcher |
| The Real Bruce Lee | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start crouched right of Kung fu, left low on bad sloper, right high on better sloper. Climb up face on slopey crimps, big move to V-notch. After that, big sidepulls to TO. Arête off. |