Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| TRIM | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 3' left of 101 Ways on rail--Dyno to hold on right at lip. |
| Terminal Velocity | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on ramp, reach high to sidepull pinch slot & bad 2-finger pocket. Bust for good edge. Bust for top. |
| The Birds Nest | V4 | ⭐ | Problem is on the far right of the boulder. SDS on undercling and side pull, move up right into the far right of the boulder to giant pinches, sloper, then a pocket, finish on jug at the top. |
| The Hammer | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on sharp thin flake & right on slopey sidepull. Up & slap right then aim left for seam. Work feet & follow the weakness. TO. |
| The Magic Bullet | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on a low sidepull & the left pocket. Move up to the right pocket, then to the lip. TO. |
| The Plot | V4 | - | SDS left on solid sidepull, right on really low sidepull. Keep throwing while working slightly left and TO. |
| The Shermanator | V4 | ⭐ | Far right side (left of arête). Right on crimp, left on sidepull. Traverse left staying low. Finish on Gill. |
| The Tombstone | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb white face. Start on jug on right arête, up to both arêtes & hug your way to TO. |
| Traverse | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start somewhere near X-files & traverse right to finish on Spectacles. |
| Turn That Frown Upside Down | V4 | - | SDS 1 ft left of “Grimey”. LH in hueco, RH in sidepull slot beside arête. Stay off arête, hit slopey V out left, work way to lip. TO. |
| Unnamed | V4 | - | SDS to right of Tree Time. Grab undercling of the right side. Then move into Tree time & TO. |
| Unnamed Left | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on obvious holds. Up and left on crimps and small horn-like feature. |
| Unnamed Right | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on obvious holds. Up and right on crimps/sidepulls. |
| Vole Power | V4 | ⭐ | SDS. Large rail on far right and crimps to go to lip crimp and sloper. TO. |
| Watch Your Melon | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on slab side 2 feet from a softball size scoop, match hand start on the lip of the slab. Heel hook softball scoop. Stay low and traverse left all the way around boulder back to the slab. Watch your head threw the cave! There is also a loose flake just before the cave, use the four finger pinch pocket above. Squeeze threw the cave, reach for the solid flakes. Work the fun overhung moves to the lip. Then around the corner to the blank looking face with a pocket in the centre and a slash at lip, after this it's jug city. |