Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cocina | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS left on big sidepull edge, right on lowest opposing sidepull, bump up to sidepull, bust for jug of Seagulls, TO. |
| Cousteau and Jeannie | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Happy thoughts start. Go up to small crescent crimper then bust over bulge. Then problem is up and over the bulge, not out right. |
| Death Trap | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Brave’ low on slotted pocket & block, up/right to undercling to small left hand crimp, big move to ‘Brave’ pinch with right then cross over to crimp above it then toss to finish horn to right at the lip, TO. |
| Declaration of Faith | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start at 2 good crimps. Up/right to pocket, up/left to bomber sidepull. Jug ladder to top. |
| Dirty scorn | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Pressed 4 time. go straight up off jugs to small crimp pocket and move left through side pulls, mono and presses -finish on block with ledges at top of arete |
| Donut Munching Canadians | V8 | - | SDS to Carpet Munching Diablos. |
| Double Big Mac | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start as Big Mac, but after the lip finish as Diamond in the Rough. |
| El Guapo | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Link The Right Stuff into DeadFinger. |
| Eye Candy | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Right of Krymptonite. Start on a sloper 5ft up. Work left, then up face. TO in a sort of groove |
| Floryshe | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the curved ledge in the middle of the X Boulder; go straight up through series of side pulls and underclings to a triangular hold. Get pockety dish directly to the left of the triangle and bust it up to a dish just to the right of the large flake, over the lip. Two jugs above the dish finish it. |
| Four Leaf Clover | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder on obvious phallic. Traverse right, doing huge move to Shadow start crimp & continue along reaching large 3- finger of Threesome. Finish Threesome. |
| Infected Mushroom Middle | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | From the v-notch jug, Infected Mushroom Middle goes straight up to top out. See also: Infected Mushroom and Infected Mushroom Left. |
| Mangler Sr. | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS matched at bottom of inverted "V", up on small holds to "mangler" crimp (right) up to lip. Hit the point of the "V"; pop for a good hold than cruise the flake system. Drop down. |
| Narrows is the Path | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Start to left, right on slopey sidepull, left on a 2-finger knob crimp. Bust up to micro crimps, stab a good pocket up right. Finish on jugs. |
| Nothing Static | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Maha, go to first 2 edges on Maha, then highstep lip and hit a tiny crimp high on the face. Finish above on the big spike. |