Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seep vs the Army of Darkness | V10 | - | Start matched where the two boulders meet, then compress along the fallen prow.
FA: Richard Syracuse |
| Seppuku | V10 | - | Stand start on the undercling horn. Move up and right, turn the lip onto the slab and top out.
FA: Matt Corstorphine |
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. |
| Stiletto | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.
FA: Jake Tiger |
| Super Hero | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Comfortably Numb. Do the undercling moves of C.N., then at the start of Novacane , do Sandstone Roulette |
| Who Run Tings | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS low & left on a perfect jug. Move up/right on sidepulls to a hard scary TO. |
| Zozobra Sit | V10 | - | Sit start to Zozobra |
| Threat Level Midnight | V11- | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb "Karasu" into "Black Eagle". |
| From Coal and Ashes | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | TBD |
| The Crucifix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | 2 meters left of Phoenix at same height. Start on 2 underclings. Use crimps & flat holds to go up & right. A huge iron cross move takes you to a pocket at the lip of the bulge. Cross over into jug & TO just to the left of phoenix top out. |
| The Gunt | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on sharp crimps, out on nasty slopers to 2 pinches at lip. Big move to sloping edge, then TO onto shelf. |
| The Phoenix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start low in middle of cave matched on left facing scooped edge. Work up/right on underclings, flat slaps & pinches. TO to the left of the Captain Hook start holds. |
| Young Thugs | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb into Young Offender. FA Ethan Salvo. |
| Karasu | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Low start to the Phoenix: Start on a flat rail down and right of the Phoenix start. Core up and throw to the jug, then move into the Phoenix. FA was thought to be Kaito Watanabe, but it was later revealed that Jeremy Smith got the FA in the early 2000s. |
| Rite of Passage | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | The infamous stairwell project, once the longest standing project in the Glen. Stand start under the overhang with sloping right edge and right hand on a side pull pocket at head height. Move through edges and sloping ledges to a large dyno to a small incut crimp and top out over the stairs.
FA: Ethan Salvo |