Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back To His Future | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at corner. on sidepull/underclings. Up/left to gaston & right facing slopey sidepull. Finish on jug. |
| Balrog Battle | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right across the path of the Misfits boulder (mighty midges, etc) an overhang facing the river view atop the tunnel path. Start seated matched on low rail. Topout. FA Jake Tiger. |
| Beef Baron | V7 | - | Start on the bottom left side. After the first undercling pocket climb small crimps to the TO |
| Black Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start on the face left of the arête with good edges. Avoid the right arête. |
| Blazed | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on big & slopey sidepull, right on small & crimpy sidepull. Cross into a small pocket, & work into Pothead. |
| Celebrex | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the arete on the bottom left side of the boulder. Move out under the steep section to continue climbing to the top. |
| Classified | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | In middle of overhanging prow. Starts on 2 good slot pockets, TO using undercling pocket & crimps. |
| Comfortably Numb | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane. |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. |
| English Doodoo | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2 good holds at chest height at the base of the English Voodoo Arête. Climb straight up the slab to the large sandy ledge up high. Spot your landing and drop down!
FA: Lucas Uchida |
| FA Glory | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link. |
| Floor is Lava | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Face away from 'Epiphany', looking downhill and slightly to the right. This problem is in the middle of the face of a long short arching boulder that is about 35º overhung. SDS in a pit between two rocks matched on an undercling that is positive but angled awkwardly. Go straight up using a perfect sloping edge, crimps, and/or side-pulls. Snag the lip and T/O. |
| Full Moon Rising | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Gillty. Climb up in black streak on mostly sidepulls. Trend up/right to TO. |
| Girls of Cheektowaga | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge |
| Gulag | V7 | ⭐ | Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart. |