Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Procreation | V3 | - | Start left in birth canal pocket, right on arête. Heel hook right arête. Left to huge block, match in top slot of block with right. Shoot left to either sidepull, or crimp, shoot right to sharp mini jug. Shoot left to finish jug match on jug & step off. |
| Psilocybin Roof | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Doesn't take much route finding here! Find the huge hand/fist crack in the roof & climb it. Top out above. Formerly a roped climb graded 5.11. |
| Punk Ass | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start at the back of the cave. Traverse entire wall. 15ft. |
| Quantum Liaisons | V3 | ⭐ | SDS right of ‘Copycat’. RH in hidden pocket/pinch & LH on anything. Pull slopey pockets to top. |
| Rails Problem | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Pete's Pinch. At the big pinch, move right to an edge & cruise up the obvious rail to the top. TO. |
| Right Arête | V3 | ⭐ | Start on far right side on main face. Climb small pockets & incut edges to top. Stay right of arête. |
| Roach Motel | V3 | - | SDS on arête. Grab pockets & edges (mostly on the "front") & climb up to big jugs directly under roof. |
| Sanitarium | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS low/right on lowest incut jug. Up/left on incuts. Reach up to dimpled sloper & edge your weight up to TO. |
| Seam - In | V3 | - | SDS on the downhill arete. Traverse left on large slopey ledge Using holes and some crimps in the seam. Dont use holds on the overhanging face. Top out at the far left point. |
| Seven | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right side of boulder. Traverse lip right to left & top out gracefully on a couple of small crimps. TO. |
| Shrubbery | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Fish, up to crimp & slopey edge to nice incut flake. TO through slot. |
| Stiff Upper Lip | V3 | - | SDS right of seam, RH crimp pocket, LH crimp, throw to a 3F pocket out right. work your way up slopey protruding corner, to lip or dyno from pocket and crimp for a V4 (or start from the three finger pocket and crimp V2). TO. |
| Stinky Shoes | V3 | ⭐ | Cruise up the right side of the face (right of Acronym) on crimps. Pull the overhanging arête to TO. |
| Stress Free | V3 | ⭐ | SDS on good left crimp, right sidepull pocket. Get positive ledge then vertical crack. Step off or finish Hierarchy. |
| Stretch Armstrong's Summer Vacation | V3 | - | Start on 2 small ledges in alcove on main face. Climb through pockets to top. |