Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Witchita Express | V2 | ⭐⭐ | On opposite face of All Aboard, up from Monogram. SDS in middle of face on sidepulls. Throw to pinch & climb jugs to top. |
| To Have & To Hold | V2 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner to right of Yes Dear. SDS far right on jug, traverse to left/up & TO. |
| Toe Sucker | V2 | - | SDS low with right in pocket at horizontal and a low left sidepull.Snag the left side jug and follow left rim up and right. TO. |
| Tree Hugger | V2 | ⭐ | Start left of Maha on other side of tree on crimps. Up to ledge right, up to crack under roof, left to ledge & then TO. |
| Turbulan | V2 | - | Start on jug under roof on left side of boulder. Crank out to ledge & left around corner. TO on left side of point |
| Vanilla Ice | V2 | ⭐ | Sit start on a bad sloping ledge and make hard moves into a pocket before tackling the top out. |
| Variance | V2 | ⭐ | Sit start on a high pocket and the left arête, top out. |
| Working Late | V2 | ⭐ | Climb the pockety left arête. Originally climbed at 5.8. |
| Younger Years | V2 | - | On the far left side of the wall climb the tiny roof to the small face above. Not recommended. |
| ...Around the corner | V3 | ⭐ | Sit on tall block with hands on positive lip holds, trend left then roll up right. |
| 2 Dollar Shoes | V3 | ⭐⭐ | On huge overhanging face. SDS on first right facing ledge to left gaston & up to knobby crimp. To top using pockets, incuts, & back steps. Do not top out. Variation is to dyno to jug from big edge left of the knob. |
| A Pocket Too Far | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for 'Walking...', keep low, go for good pocket out right, in to pocket pinch with left, to edges of 'Birthday Brew' - continue traversing right to decent sidepull - tricky move to pocket/crimp with left, up and right to large sidepull/ledge - finish on giant sloper ledge up to the right. |
| Absentine | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under obvious Hueco pocketed fin, climb the obvious natural line heading left and top out. Landing space is limited, and involves a nice slide down towards the river so be careful. |
| Adam's Virginity | V3 | - | Inch up under small roof. SDS, right on good rail, on right side of prow, left under roof on sloping rail. Slap your left hand up the front face using crimps & pockets. Grab the jug & pull up over lip. TO. |
| Art's Arête | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS far left side of boulder on short overhanging arête, left on extremely low sidepull, right on sloper. Throw to fat sloper on right, cruise to big holds on loose looking overhang. |