Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dualism | V10 | ⭐ | Start between 2 problems, crouching, right on low very slopey pocket & left on sidepull. Straight up on sidepulls/crimps to twin monos in middle of upper face, followed by another 2 finger pocket just below top. TO. Var V7 Start standing as high as you can reach. Finish the same. |
| Eye Candy Extension | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start as Bagging Loose Tea Extension and instead of climbing into Bagging Loose Tea, traverse into Eye candy.
AKA TTC. |
| Funk-Shwey | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Gary’s Roof; up to pinch in crack. Throw to flat wall, build feet to gain lip & crank slopers to TO. |
| Help from my wife and friends | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS LH on arête, RH on micro. Bust to slopey rail, up to small crimps. Up to LH small dish. RH goes up to SICK sloper (with thumb catch) then bust left hand to jug. If you start on rail then V9. |
| Old Man Gillronamoe | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on pile of rock in middle of face. Find a good incut crimp for left and a good three finger undercling for right, both about waist/ chest high. Work up and slightly right through a crimp, sidepull and a good pocket. BIG move straight up to a gaston. Work over left to the slash in the upper face of the boulder. TO on jugs. |
| Razorblade Rodeo | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left under Bonfire, on 2 underclings. Power up to sharp crimp right hand, into Bonfire & finish. |
| Rigormortis | V10 | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Ruffneck. Huck out right to sidepull & fall into deep jug undercling pocket. Right hand to intermediate crimp, then bump into Orient crimp. Slap a 2-finger sloping divot & follow lip to TO, above jug. |
| Seep vs the Army of Darkness | V10 | - | Start matched where the two boulders meet, then compress along the fallen prow.
FA: Richard Syracuse |
| Seppuku | V10 | - | Stand start on the undercling horn. Move up and right, turn the lip onto the slab and top out.
FA: Matt Corstorphine |
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. |
| Stiletto | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.
FA: Jake Tiger |
| Super Hero | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Comfortably Numb. Do the undercling moves of C.N., then at the start of Novacane , do Sandstone Roulette |
| Who Run Tings | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS low & left on a perfect jug. Move up/right on sidepulls to a hard scary TO. |
| Zozobra Sit | V10 | - | Sit start to Zozobra |
| Threat Level Midnight | V11- | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb "Karasu" into "Black Eagle". |