Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| What Hands Can Grasp | V6+ | - | SDS in cleft, left on sloping rail, right low on large sidepull. Up/left to 2 opposing pinches, left on crimps to vertical slot. TO. |
| Poo Tips 2 | V7- | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the undercling below the start jug for Orient Express. Climb left through the Rigormortis jug to finish as Ruffneck. |
| Anti Hero | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start at lip left of Novacane on blocky pinch & crimp, campus to sharp edge above, finish on huge slot/rail above. |
| Approaching Guiding Light | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on left side of 45 wall in cave, left on a u-shaped crimp, right on pinch. Hit good edge, cross to sloper & hit lip. TO. |
| Asian friends | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Help from wife... except that you go left hand to far part of top sloper instead of divot. |
| Back To His Future | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at corner. on sidepull/underclings. Up/left to gaston & right facing slopey sidepull. Finish on jug. |
| Balrog Battle | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right across the path of the Misfits boulder (mighty midges, etc) an overhang facing the river view atop the tunnel path. Start seated matched on low rail. Topout. FA Jake Tiger. |
| Beef Baron | V7 | - | Start on the bottom left side. After the first undercling pocket climb small crimps to the TO |
| Black Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start on the face left of the arête with good edges. Avoid the right arête. |
| Blazed | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on big & slopey sidepull, right on small & crimpy sidepull. Cross into a small pocket, & work into Pothead. |
| Celebrex | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the arete on the bottom left side of the boulder. Move out under the steep section to continue climbing to the top. |
| Classified | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | In middle of overhanging prow. Starts on 2 good slot pockets, TO using undercling pocket & crimps. |
| Comfortably Numb | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane. |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. |
| English Doodoo | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2 good holds at chest height at the base of the English Voodoo Arête. Climb straight up the slab to the large sandy ledge up high. Spot your landing and drop down!
FA: Lucas Uchida |