Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Independent | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on big pocket & large crimp. Up to left slanting crimp, right to right slanting crimp on arête. Bust to jug. |
| K9 Track Suit | V6 | - | Far right of boulder. SDS, left on crimp & undercling (both on +1 grade). Slopers to high step to gain slab. |
| K9 Track Suit Low | V6 | - | Start with both hands on the undercling rail right of K8. Move up and left through slopers to top out. The right arete is out. |
| Little Tree | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS. Climb centerline on small holds, finish on horn. |
| Loco en la Cabesa | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the same incut as Sanitarium, climb up blunt arête/bulge on crimp slots, sloper, TO on jugs. |
| Monkey Sweat Unlimited | V6 | ⭐ | SDS on 2 small pockets and a high right foot - throw for sloper. Work through sloper using a variety of intermediate holds and gain horn up & right. Top out is dirty, climb down on the right side. |
| Nintendo Thumb | V6 | ⭐ | SDS right of Sharkey on slanted pocket at lip. Straight up on left-facing sidepulls. Finish on big jug. |
| No U-Turn SDS | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Terrible crimp for left hand, even worse lower two finger crimp/pinch for right hand, move in to start of No U-Turn and finish. |
| Open Forum | V6 | ⭐ | Sit start with a right hand undercling and left hand sloper. Gain the open dish and top out. |
| Oral B | V6 | ⭐ | Sit start on the blocky ledges out left and climb up and slightly right to finish on the chossy ledge. |
| Paris' Weakness | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Girls’ on sharp tooth and undercling pull with heel-toe cam, head up left to sloper then large move out right to large gaston rail. |
| Pawn Shop | V6 | ⭐ | 3rd prob from the left. SDS left high/right on crimp. Move to really bad right hand crimp to gaston. The rail is out except for the jug on top of it. "Stand Up" top out. |
| Peace and Love | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | A small cave, climbes right and apx. 15-20 steps downhill of Cocina. Look for the heart encircled peace sign scratched into the lip of of the cave. That has become the namesake for this boulder. Sit start on a good incut RH crimp with a thumb-catch and LH on a very small edge pinch. Jam or toehook in the crack and throw to a good LH side-pull then proceed to topout straight up. |
| Pirates of the Caribbean | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Go from the Gunt to Oral B and behind Oral B leers a striking triangular overhang that juts over a steep landing just to the right. Start on RH side-pull edge and LH incut crimp (SDS). Gain the left arête and use edges and good slopers on the right to squeeze your way to the point of the triangle.
FA: Aaron Eden |
| Previously Tapped | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Girls on left hand gaston. Do hard drop knee to reach pocket. Climb up to clean TO. |