Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Running Man | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on spike, right next to left on edge of rail. Dyno up/right to huge carved out whirlpool area. TO through open slot. |
| Semblance | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under overhang near the left. Climb through the finger pockets to the top. |
| Shake-a-Sherpa | V5 | ⭐ | SDS on lowest point (closest to river) on 2 slopers. Move up through series of slopers to hit far right side of lip. Loose jug on left side of lip is out. TO. |
| Slap Happy | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on undercling & edge on arête. Climb slopers without the crack & large holds. |
| Slipper | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start same as Stiletto but hands reversed and go left. Top out on a crack.
FA: Brian Fernandes |
| Speed Bump Direct | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do 'Speed', and instead of to black finish jug, climb straight up to good pocket at lip & do slabby TO. |
| Speed Kills | V5 | ⭐ | SDS as for 101; crank up right side of wall staying right of big crack. Finish on large jug halfway up the wall. |
| Stitches | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on square horizontal jug 10' left of Pressed. Out roof on square cut 3-finger jug at lip, then sloper jugs up/left. |
| Summer Romance | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | To right of tombstone boulder is a low boulder with a lip that extends a little ways downhill. SDS low on lip on a jug. Traverse the lip up & left until you are forced to TO. |
| TC | V5 | - | SDS on the super thin pinch on the right side of the right face. Cruise to the TO. |
| The Baroness | V5 | - | Right side of boulder. Up crimps to very loose & dangerous looking flake then go on more crimps to the TO. |
| The Egg | V5 | - | FA: Tomasz Wojtkowiak |
| The Great Wall of China | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start way to the left. Traverse right, the entire boulder. Stay below large holds above your head. |
| The Impressionist | V5 | ⭐ | SDS right of Minimalist on good crimps. Fire up to good holds, continue to clean TO, same as ‘Feet’. |
| The Little Illustrious | V5 | - | Sit start way to the right on low edges. Climb left to the huge shelf and then up and over the bulge to finish on the same chossy ledge as Oral B. |