Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Manboy Luck | V5 | - | SDS far left side of boulder on obvious large jug. Out right to mono, cross up to hidden pocket in sloper then up right onto arête, rail follow arête to right and TO. Skip nice looking pinch under the arête in middle, it's loose. |
| Midget Madness | V5 | ⭐ | SDS low on the overhanging arête closest to the water. Move up to the huge sloper, & mantle. |
| Milestones | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on some low holds, throw to sharp left hand knob & SMALL crimp. Through hand rail & do "stand up" TO. |
| Misfit Mantle | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at large rail and move to lip then follow featured lip to mantle at far right side. Variation;mantle early off of crimps[V3] TO. |
| Mr. Armageddon | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do Delicatessen then from the big undercling DOUBLE-DYNO to the big sloppy ledge. |
| Neolithic | V5 | ⭐⭐ | On the left side of this boulder a blunt arête features some kind slopers. Slap these to a pleasing TO. |
| Novocane | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS far right of cave on sharp 2 sided flake jug. Crank into crack/seam & out to end. Chuck for jug ledge up left. |
| Oral-B | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Illustrious, from pinches head right to undercling & work to right of bulge using small crimps. TO bulge. |
| Peg Leg | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Little Tree except head up & left biting pockets, finish on Mullet Attack. |
| Pica | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in the cave on the double undercling block. Move right around the corner; follow the seam to the top. |
| Piercing Joe Valentine | V5 | - | SDS on flat jug. Throw left up to sloping crimp & then right up. Crank straight up. |
| Pothead | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | 3ft left of 2 dollar on right facing ledge. Reach up to knob, then up/left to slopey block. Dyno to finish jug. TO. |
| Pothole | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for U-Turn, at v-notch move through slopers to jug on arête. Lunge right to finish jug on No-U-Turn! |
| Reaction Action | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug, huck up to wicked sloper, match & bump to sloper, gain left crimp & up to tiny crimp to TO. |
| Running Man | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on spike, right next to left on edge of rail. Dyno up/right to huge carved out whirlpool area. TO through open slot. |