Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old Man Gillronamoe | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on pile of rock in middle of face. Find a good incut crimp for left and a good three finger undercling for right, both about waist/ chest high. Work up and slightly right through a crimp, sidepull and a good pocket. BIG move straight up to a gaston. Work over left to the slash in the upper face of the boulder. TO on jugs. |
| Razorblade Rodeo | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left under Bonfire, on 2 underclings. Power up to sharp crimp right hand, into Bonfire & finish. |
| Rigormortis | V10 | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Ruffneck. Huck out right to sidepull & fall into deep jug undercling pocket. Right hand to intermediate crimp, then bump into Orient crimp. Slap a 2-finger sloping divot & follow lip to TO, above jug. |
| Seep vs the Army of Darkness | V10 | - | Start matched where the two boulders meet, then compress along the fallen prow.
FA: Richard Syracuse |
| Seppuku | V10 | - | Stand start on the undercling horn. Move up and right, turn the lip onto the slab and top out.
FA: Matt Corstorphine |
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. |
| Stiletto | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.
FA: Jake Tiger |
| Super Hero | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Comfortably Numb. Do the undercling moves of C.N., then at the start of Novacane , do Sandstone Roulette |
| Who Run Tings | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS low & left on a perfect jug. Move up/right on sidepulls to a hard scary TO. |
| Zozobra Sit | V10 | - | Sit start to Zozobra |
| Threat Level Midnight | V11- | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb "Karasu" into "Black Eagle". |
| From Coal and Ashes | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | TBD |
| The Crucifix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | 2 meters left of Phoenix at same height. Start on 2 underclings. Use crimps & flat holds to go up & right. A huge iron cross move takes you to a pocket at the lip of the bulge. Cross over into jug & TO just to the left of phoenix top out. |
| The Gunt | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on sharp crimps, out on nasty slopers to 2 pinches at lip. Big move to sloping edge, then TO onto shelf. |
| The Phoenix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start low in middle of cave matched on left facing scooped edge. Work up/right on underclings, flat slaps & pinches. TO to the left of the Captain Hook start holds. |