Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rule of Thumb | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right. |
| Sandstone Roulette | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Novacane. Make big move left into rail, out to small horn. Left to starting holds of Anti Hero. Climb Anti Hero. Var V6/7 Start as for Novacane, left into suspect rail & continue to horn. Throw back into Novacane & finish. |
| Shadow Boxing | V9 | ⭐ | Start on flat 8-finger edge 4ft right of Gulag. Long move to get tiny left-facing sharp crimp sidepull, head up to sidepull flakes. Keep working up/left, resisting the urge to jump right into an adjacent problem. Finish over the lip on big holds. |
| Smoke the Dutchess (aka Gary's Roof) | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at base of big roof on jug. Up to left finger lock, crank to right undercling. Left slaps offset seam, right grabs more underclings. After sloper at lip, grab edge & reach way up to huge right facing sidepull. Stand up over lip to TO. |
| Tantric Shocker | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on arête, right in 4-finger pocket. Left to crimp on arête, shoot to Shocker pocket. Finish Shocker. Var V9 Finish on Felcher |
| The Real Bruce Lee | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start crouched right of Kung fu, left low on bad sloper, right high on better sloper. Climb up face on slopey crimps, big move to V-notch. After that, big sidepulls to TO. Arête off. |
| Black Eagle | V9+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Phoenix, make move into first hold of phoenix with right hand, start heading left, crank through- find some flat underclings on roof with lefty, get your feet in your face make some big slap moves with your right followed by big double-up to sharp v-notched pocket. Huck to finish on Crucifix |
| A Cry For Deliverance | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on small crimp sidepull, right on slopey sidepull. Up sidepulls to Cocina, climb Cocina. |
| BFF | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on big pocket about 6ft to the right of bonfire's start. Use a high foot and bust left to a good sidepull, swing your feet left and do some crazy footwork to gain a big (kinda flat) undercling, mess with your feet, bump to a sloper with your left, use another undercling with your right hand, and work your way into bonfire and finish it. kinda sneaky footwork, but Great Great problem. Enjoy |
| Bagging Loose Tea Sit | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start low on Bagging Loose Tea matched on the crimpy edge. |
| Closed Eye Visuals | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right side. SDS at good pocket crimps, cross right hand to pocket & up on pockets & small crimps to very cool pocket pinch, throw to good horizontal rail. Traverse left & finish on incut jug. Var V7 Same start but with left hand, bust right to flat edges, bump left hand into pockets & finish CEV. |
| Dualism | V10 | ⭐ | Start between 2 problems, crouching, right on low very slopey pocket & left on sidepull. Straight up on sidepulls/crimps to twin monos in middle of upper face, followed by another 2 finger pocket just below top. TO. Var V7 Start standing as high as you can reach. Finish the same. |
| Eye Candy Extension | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start as Bagging Loose Tea Extension and instead of climbing into Bagging Loose Tea, traverse into Eye candy.
AKA TTC. |
| Funk-Shwey | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Gary’s Roof; up to pinch in crack. Throw to flat wall, build feet to gain lip & crank slopers to TO. |
| Help from my wife and friends | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS LH on arête, RH on micro. Bust to slopey rail, up to small crimps. Up to LH small dish. RH goes up to SICK sloper (with thumb catch) then bust left hand to jug. If you start on rail then V9. |