Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mangler Sr. | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS matched at bottom of inverted "V", up on small holds to "mangler" crimp (right) up to lip. Hit the point of the "V"; pop for a good hold than cruise the flake system. Drop down. |
| Narrows is the Path | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Start to left, right on slopey sidepull, left on a 2-finger knob crimp. Bust up to micro crimps, stab a good pocket up right. Finish on jugs. |
| Nothing Static | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Same start as Maha, go to first 2 edges on Maha, then highstep lip and hit a tiny crimp high on the face. Finish above on the big spike. |
| One Inch Punch | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Right of Mangler. SDS, left on sidepull crimp, right near base of mini arête. Slap up right mini-arête. Finish as for 'Mangler'. |
| Orient Express | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on scoop pocket. Out overhang on edges, shoot to lip pockets. Finish up/right on large edges. |
| Peewee | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right of Sibishi. Left on sidepull flake just right of undercling pocket. Right on crimpy sidepull low out right (looks like an ear). Fall back onto sidepull near your face, throw for long crimp edge. Match & finish as for Sibishi. |
| Peripheral Vision | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Overhung dihedral. SDS, right on non-existent crimp, left on small pocket. Climb dihedral. TO. |
| Personal Vendetta | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at 2 big opposing sidepulls, left same as Blazed. Up/left on sidepull slots. Cross to right hand pinch/gaston. Rock over to pockets and slots around bulge. TO using jugs. |
| Sexual Inadequacy | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Snakes Eyes, straight up to crimpy pinch & bust left to crimp & up arete. TO. |
| Snake Eyes | V8 | ⭐ | SDS on right arête at an awkward rail. Move left through large pocket to slopers & up the arête. TO. |
| Sweet Peaness | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on low rail and move up and right to a sloping pocket. Mantle the top as per Misfit Mantle |
| The Honeymoon | V8 | - | SDS in horiz crack at back of roof. Go to lip. Use edges, crimps, slopers & arête to reach jugs. |
| Trouble and Strife | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Help from... on 2 slopers on bulge. Left heel on rail of Help... Bust up to side pull, then sloper (both with left hand) then up. |
| Dead Stuff | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS 6ft right of Right Stuff large incut ledges. Left to Right Stuff. Climb El Guapo. |
| Elephant House Roof | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on sculpted jug. Move to lip & surmount with difficulty. TO above good arête like jug. |