Niagara Glen

Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.

Sources

  • The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
  • Numerous social media posts.

Disclaimer

Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.

Conditions

Drying
🌙 Partly Cloudy🌡️ 21.8°C💨 8.0 km/h SSW💧 98%
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Routes

    Reset
    NameGrade ↑Star ratingDescription
    Carpet Munching DiablosV6⭐⭐
    Climb the blank face on the left side of the boulder. TO.
    Chinese Slipper CrabV6⭐⭐⭐⭐
    Down the dead-end trail walking away from the black cave there's a small boulder that doesn't look like anything special. This unassuming boulder, however, is filled with delicious claw meat. SDS (laying down) with left on a sloping sidepull pinch and right on a bad undercling. Find the right foot, and work your way through a short sequence of amazing pinches and chunky bumps.
    Chocolate UnderpantsV6⭐⭐⭐
    Start in center of face, on large pocket and good edge. Big move up/right to sloping ledge, hand foot match start holds, and hit small crimper with left hand. cross to crimpy rail, and slap sloper with your left hand. Hit your rest jug about a foot above that, work up/right through a few crosses, and slopey gaston. hit good finger bucket about 5 feet from top, then go right to good clean pockets and TO around upper right hand side of boulder.
    Concentration BreathingV6⭐⭐⭐
    On the same boulder as 'Celebrex' and Bruce Lee. Start a couple metres to the right, double underclinging a left facing rail. Core up, concentrate on your breathing, and power through to the lip, stand up on top of the lip as 'T/O'. FA: Lucas Uchida
    CrackheadV6⭐⭐
    SDS 15ft left of Peripheral on good incut rail. Left on good pockets, edges. Stay below lip to Pothead & finish.
    CryptographyV6⭐⭐⭐
    Start on 2 sidepull pockets. Up/right to ledge. Traverse up/left on crimps/pockets to large pocket. TO.
    Dead FingerV6⭐⭐
    Start on finish of Right. Go up face using obvious crimp & crack sidepull. Up roof via crack, end on huge jug.
    Dung Beetle IntercourseV6-
    Do Dung Beetle backwards down climbing the face opposite the start & walk off at the start jug.
    Electric French Fries SitV6-
    Same start as Electric French Fries, but sit start.
    Epidermal DeficiencyV6-
    Climb as per Climb De La Crimp but instead of going up at the crimps, cross into a sharp rail on the right, bump to razor sharp gaston and crank to mini ledge near the top. FA: Scott Chuback
    Escape ClausV6⭐⭐⭐
    This problem is on the sandstone cliff band about 15 ft down trail (upstream) from the obvious V0 arete. Start on the fin at the back of a small chest level roof. Reach out to a jug at the lip. Grab a funky crimp on the face, then 'escape' out left to the crack formed by a large detached block. Finish on jugs in the horizontal seam.
    Eyes Wide OpenV6⭐⭐
    Climb Closed Eye Visuals using the massive spike horn and right arête.
    Floryshe LeftV6-
    Start as Floyshe but finish on the final jugs of Love of My Life
    Greene ThumbV6⭐⭐⭐
    Start same as Moon. Up/left on cool pinch & crimps to reverse gaston. The line is just right of hairline vertical crack. Up & over in the white rock, TO with perfect jugs/pockets. Do Not Fall!
    Here I Go AgainV6⭐⭐
    Start as Mama Mia but go through the face via the pockets. Avoid the arête entirely.