Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Snake Eyes | V8 | ⭐ | SDS on right arête at an awkward rail. Move left through large pocket to slopers & up the arête. TO. |
| Sweet Peaness | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on low rail and move up and right to a sloping pocket. Mantle the top as per Misfit Mantle |
| The Honeymoon | V8 | - | SDS in horiz crack at back of roof. Go to lip. Use edges, crimps, slopers & arête to reach jugs. |
| Trouble and Strife | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Help from... on 2 slopers on bulge. Left heel on rail of Help... Bust up to side pull, then sloper (both with left hand) then up. |
| Dead Stuff | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS 6ft right of Right Stuff large incut ledges. Left to Right Stuff. Climb El Guapo. |
| Elephant House Roof | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on sculpted jug. Move to lip & surmount with difficulty. TO above good arête like jug. |
| Infected Mushroom | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Chain Reaction, head left to Krymptonite finish. Hit sloping ledge out right & straight up to large side pull. TO. |
| Raserie | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start directly to the left of CN on a big slopy pinch rail & hold your chest parallel to the ground, put your feet up near the starting holds on CN and work your way up the rail pulling in with your arms and pushing out with your feet. Set up on 2 crimps and throw out to the starting on Novacane. Finish as per Novacane. Finish as per Sandstone Rullet future V10/11? |
| English Voodoo | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on pinch, right on crimp, up/out steep arête. Long moves at end of arête & turning lip. TO. |
| Epiphany | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start on sharp black 2-handed jug. Straight out roof on thuggish gastons, pockets & pinches. Stab a deep slot in headwall & campus up to jug, straight above. TO on gigantic holds. |
| Fear of a Toothed Vagina | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder on steep face. SDS low on 2 pockets; move up/right on pockets/underclings. Sharp! TO. |
| Ivy League | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Around corner left of Maha. Start on 2 flat crimps. Throw heel high/left. Reach up to pocket crimps & bust it up to ledge. TO. |
| Ko-Chi-Minh-Trail | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start middle of boulder, right on gaston, left on right leaning crimp. Up/right to sharp left leaning crimp. Work way up on few bad holds to eventually make a toss to the good edge just before the top of the boulder. TO. |
| Necromancer | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Starts on jugs on the righthand side of the cave. Move through slopers and edges, and make a big move to the pocket at the lip. Finish as Orient Express. |
| Razor Wire Education | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under Maha on 2-handed jug. Stab gaston in crack, lock off & cross to sloper over lip. Throw to start of Maha, climb Maha. |