Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Horshack's Last Dance | V6 | - | Start at 2-finger pocket & sidepull staying right of huge dish, crank up through small pockets to top. |
| Hunt of the Nazgûl | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start the same as 'Balrog Battle', but go left to link into Framonda and T/O over some nice slopers at the lip. FA Dillon Elliot. |
| Husbands & Lies | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Horshack's. Traverse right on holds at lip of slab to slopey pocket on Wicked. TO. |
| Independent | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on big pocket & large crimp. Up to left slanting crimp, right to right slanting crimp on arête. Bust to jug. |
| K9 Track Suit | V6 | - | Far right of boulder. SDS, left on crimp & undercling (both on +1 grade). Slopers to high step to gain slab. |
| K9 Track Suit Low | V6 | - | Start with both hands on the undercling rail right of K8. Move up and left through slopers to top out. The right arete is out. |
| Little Tree | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS. Climb centerline on small holds, finish on horn. |
| Loco en la Cabesa | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the same incut as Sanitarium, climb up blunt arête/bulge on crimp slots, sloper, TO on jugs. |
| Monkey Sweat Unlimited | V6 | ⭐ | SDS on 2 small pockets and a high right foot - throw for sloper. Work through sloper using a variety of intermediate holds and gain horn up & right. Top out is dirty, climb down on the right side. |
| Nintendo Thumb | V6 | ⭐ | SDS right of Sharkey on slanted pocket at lip. Straight up on left-facing sidepulls. Finish on big jug. |
| No U-Turn SDS | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Terrible crimp for left hand, even worse lower two finger crimp/pinch for right hand, move in to start of No U-Turn and finish. |
| Open Forum | V6 | ⭐ | Sit start with a right hand undercling and left hand sloper. Gain the open dish and top out. |
| Oral B | V6 | ⭐ | Sit start on the blocky ledges out left and climb up and slightly right to finish on the chossy ledge. |
| Paris' Weakness | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Girls’ on sharp tooth and undercling pull with heel-toe cam, head up left to sloper then large move out right to large gaston rail. |
| Pawn Shop | V6 | ⭐ | 3rd prob from the left. SDS left high/right on crimp. Move to really bad right hand crimp to gaston. The rail is out except for the jug on top of it. "Stand Up" top out. |