Niagara Glen

Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane.

SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner.

Start on 2 good holds at chest height at the base of the English Voodoo Arête. Climb straight up the slab to the large sandy ledge up high. Spot your landing and drop down! FA: Lucas Uchida

Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link.

Face away from 'Epiphany', looking downhill and slightly to the right. This problem is in the middle of the face of a long short arching boulder that is about 35º overhung. SDS in a pit between two rocks matched on an undercling that is positive but angled awkwardly. Go straight up using a perfect sloping edge, crimps, and/or side-pulls. Snag the lip and T/O.

Start as for Gillty. Climb up in black streak on mostly sidepulls. Trend up/right to TO.

Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge

Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart.

SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful.

A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs.

Start sitting at the base of the arête between 'cryptography' and 'classified'. LH starts high on a thin side-pull pinch on the left side of the arête, RH down low in a 2F pocket on the right side of the arête. Crank off the ground and bust way up and right to a RH undercling. Work up the arête to match and finish on good holds off to the right. The dismount is treacherous because of the rock behind/beneath you - be careful ! A true SDS or it's easier. Shorter climbers may need to slide an extra pad under to reach the LH start hold.

Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket.

SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug.

Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V.

SDS on 2 big pockets. Go up right to small crimp. Crank up to left hand sidepull. Bust for the huge pocket.