Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric French Fries Sit | V6 | - | Same start as Electric French Fries, but sit start. |
| Epidermal Deficiency | V6 | - | Climb as per Climb De La Crimp but instead of going up at the crimps, cross into a sharp rail on the right, bump to razor sharp gaston and crank to mini ledge near the top.
FA: Scott Chuback |
| Escape Claus | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | This problem is on the sandstone cliff band about 15 ft down trail (upstream) from the obvious V0 arete. Start on the fin at the back of a small chest level roof. Reach out to a jug at the lip. Grab a funky crimp on the face, then 'escape' out left to the crack formed by a large detached block. Finish on jugs in the horizontal seam. |
| Floryshe Left | V6 | - | Start as Floyshe but finish on the final jugs of Love of My Life |
| Greene Thumb | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start same as Moon. Up/left on cool pinch & crimps to reverse gaston. The line is just right of hairline vertical crack. Up & over in the white rock, TO with perfect jugs/pockets. Do Not Fall! |
| Horshack's Last Dance | V6 | - | Start at 2-finger pocket & sidepull staying right of huge dish, crank up through small pockets to top. |
| Hunt of the Nazgûl | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start the same as 'Balrog Battle', but go left to link into Framonda and T/O over some nice slopers at the lip. FA Dillon Elliot. |
| Husbands & Lies | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Horshack's. Traverse right on holds at lip of slab to slopey pocket on Wicked. TO. |
| Independent | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on big pocket & large crimp. Up to left slanting crimp, right to right slanting crimp on arête. Bust to jug. |
| K9 Track Suit | V6 | - | Far right of boulder. SDS, left on crimp & undercling (both on +1 grade). Slopers to high step to gain slab. |
| K9 Track Suit Low | V6 | - | Start with both hands on the undercling rail right of K8. Move up and left through slopers to top out. The right arete is out. |
| Little Tree | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS. Climb centerline on small holds, finish on horn. |
| Loco en la Cabesa | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the same incut as Sanitarium, climb up blunt arête/bulge on crimp slots, sloper, TO on jugs. |
| Monkey Sweat Unlimited | V6 | ⭐ | SDS on 2 small pockets and a high right foot - throw for sloper. Work through sloper using a variety of intermediate holds and gain horn up & right. Top out is dirty, climb down on the right side. |
| Nintendo Thumb | V6 | ⭐ | SDS right of Sharkey on slanted pocket at lip. Straight up on left-facing sidepulls. Finish on big jug. |