Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| STD "Barnes" | V5+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | You'll see "STD" carved. Start left hand on pinch, right hand on sidepull. Up, over bulge & onto blank slab face via crimps, pockets, & will power. Then make slap for angled TO. |
| Signal The Riflemen | V5+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Line is on two obvious square like features. Start on a slot jug down low, move up right into giant pinches, move up to a large meathook hold and sloper/pinch and end at a huge jug rail up high. |
| Slow Frowns in Brown Town | V5+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on blocky overhung side of boulder (right). Up on underclings/crimps & pockets, TO. |
| Square Root of V5 | V5+ | - | start under cave, rh on undercling deep in small cave, lh on smaller undercling. Throw to crimp before lip, throw again to lip. Find crimps and follow slab topout |
| The Right Stuff | V5+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS 20ft right of Pressed on flat jug. Move right to inset block edge with v notch in top corner. Use this to gain positive flake in roof. Move out roof crack & toss out to left arête. Finish on obvious jug at lip of roof. |
| Think positive | V5+ | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Shocker, at sloper, throw right to sloper on U-Turn. finish as for U-Turn or as for Shocker. |
| AlphaOmegaMan | V6 | ⭐ | SDS awkwardly on very grainy ledge. Pull into good ledge crimp above and make hard moves right to link into giant ledge in middle of boulder. Continue right to jugs and top out on slab right side. V3 Stand start for Alpha starts in middle of boulder at giant ledge and finish as for Alpha. |
| Amnesia | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at end nearest water under arête. Climb straight up the short arête & then slightly left too difficult TO. |
| Amores Perros | V6 | ⭐ | SDS left of Dogtooth, left on high obvious sidepull with thumb notch, right on lower sidepull. Up to small crimp, bust to sharp incut, top it out. |
| At the Beach | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS Start matched on the rail and move straight up through pinches and pockets to the lip. |
| Black Magic | V6 | - | SDS at crimpy pinch & shallow pocket. Climb up sloping arch to jugs. No top out. |
| Bonfire Rodeo | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start left of center on flake. Up left to sloping edge & more sidepulls & edges to jugs on top of boulder. |
| Carpet Munching Diablos | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the blank face on the left side of the boulder. TO. |
| Chinese Slipper Crab | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Down the dead-end trail walking away from the black cave there's a small boulder that doesn't look like anything special. This unassuming boulder, however, is filled with delicious claw meat.
SDS (laying down) with left on a sloping sidepull pinch and right on a bad undercling. Find the right foot, and work your way through a short sequence of amazing pinches and chunky bumps. |
| Chocolate Underpants | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in center of face, on large pocket and good edge. Big move up/right to sloping ledge, hand foot match start holds, and hit small crimper with left hand. cross to crimpy rail, and slap sloper with your left hand. Hit your rest jug about a foot above that, work up/right through a few crosses, and slopey gaston. hit good finger bucket about 5 feet from top, then go right to good clean pockets and TO around upper right hand side of boulder. |