Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Concentration Breathing | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | On the same boulder as 'Celebrex' and Bruce Lee. Start a couple metres to the right, double underclinging a left facing rail. Core up, concentrate on your breathing, and power through to the lip, stand up on top of the lip as 'T/O'.
FA: Lucas Uchida |
| Crackhead | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 15ft left of Peripheral on good incut rail. Left on good pockets, edges. Stay below lip to Pothead & finish. |
| Cryptography | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2 sidepull pockets. Up/right to ledge. Traverse up/left on crimps/pockets to large pocket. TO. |
| Dead Finger | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start on finish of Right. Go up face using obvious crimp & crack sidepull. Up roof via crack, end on huge jug. |
| Dung Beetle Intercourse | V6 | - | Do Dung Beetle backwards down climbing the face opposite the start & walk off at the start jug. |
| Electric French Fries Sit | V6 | - | Same start as Electric French Fries, but sit start. |
| Epidermal Deficiency | V6 | - | Climb as per Climb De La Crimp but instead of going up at the crimps, cross into a sharp rail on the right, bump to razor sharp gaston and crank to mini ledge near the top.
FA: Scott Chuback |
| Escape Claus | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | This problem is on the sandstone cliff band about 15 ft down trail (upstream) from the obvious V0 arete. Start on the fin at the back of a small chest level roof. Reach out to a jug at the lip. Grab a funky crimp on the face, then 'escape' out left to the crack formed by a large detached block. Finish on jugs in the horizontal seam. |
| Eyes Wide Open | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Climb Closed Eye Visuals using the massive spike horn and right arête. |
| Floryshe Left | V6 | - | Start as Floyshe but finish on the final jugs of Love of My Life |
| Greene Thumb | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start same as Moon. Up/left on cool pinch & crimps to reverse gaston. The line is just right of hairline vertical crack. Up & over in the white rock, TO with perfect jugs/pockets. Do Not Fall! |
| Here I Go Again | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start as Mama Mia but go through the face via the pockets. Avoid the arête entirely. |
| Horshack's Last Dance | V6 | - | Start at 2-finger pocket & sidepull staying right of huge dish, crank up through small pockets to top. |
| Hunt of the Nazgûl | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start the same as 'Balrog Battle', but go left to link into Framonda and T/O over some nice slopers at the lip. FA Dillon Elliot. |
| Husbands & Lies | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Horshack's. Traverse right on holds at lip of slab to slopey pocket on Wicked. TO. |